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Happy tuxedo cat, Pedro, chillin' in his foster home before going to his forever home! We rely on volunteer foster families to help us rescue over 100 cats a year and adopt them into loving forever homes. Fosters play a critical part in our rescue - providing a safe and loving space to: Help socialize kittens and cats to humans and get them ready to become wonderful pets Have a safe and quiet home to recover after spay/neuter surgery before they become adoptable Serve as a comfortable transition space for cats that may not be able to adapt to the bustling cat room at Alley Cat Cafe When you apply to foster with us , we review your application and get in touch to learn more about your ambitions and the type of cat you are interested in caring for. This could be as simple as friendly adult cats, or if you're up for the challenge, caring for neonatal kittens or undersocialized cats. Either way - BCR will be here for you at every step of the fostering process. BCR provides: An initial vet exam to test for FIV, treat parasites, and give required vaccines Food Litter Something to scratch on We will cover all confirmed (meaning you have run the vet care past us) and ongoing veterinary care during the foster period Ongoing advice and support! If you want to learn more about the foster experience, contact us with any questions before you apply.

Trap-Neuter-Return TNR is the most effective way to reduce feral cat populations.  Once the  approach to controlling feral cat numbers was to trap and euthanize them.  However, nature abhors a vacuum , and more abandoned or stray cats will move into the vacated territory.  With a population that is spayed and neutered, the numbers of cats will stay relatively stable.  If everyone is fixed, there are no litters of kittens, and no roving cats coming in to breed, and staying for the food.  The cats are humanely trapped in live traps, and brought to a veterinarian to be spayed/neutered, and to receive rabies and distemper vaccines.  This keeps the colony healthy, and safe.  The cats' left ears are notched so that those that have been fixed and vaccinated can be easily identified.  One can imagine the difficulties of trying to tell 30 black cats apart!  Once the cats have recovered from surgery, they are returned to their colony, and the food, water and shelter that it provides.  With breeding stopped, the population will gradually reduce.  Without having to provide for litters of kittens, food goes further, and makes for healthier adult cats.  Territorial spraying, fighting and yowling virtually disappears.  TNR is an act of compassion for un-homed cats. Learn more about TNR from our Captain Kristin in the video below:

Because what’s more rewarding than making a spicy cat sweet? Two scardey feral-born sisters found in a shed became sweet house cats with time, love, and dedication (above). Introduction - What is Socialization? Socialization is the process of introducing positive experiences with humans to cats that have little to no experience with humans. Socialization is critical to changing the outcome for kittens born outdoors. Dedicated fosters who use socialization methods help these cats adapt to a life indoors and get them ready for adoption. It is also important to mention that socialization is a spectrum all dependent on the types of experiences the cat has had with humans. You can read more about the feral/stray/pet behavioral continuum of cats here in this handy Alley Cat Allies guide. These characteristics of our community cats can help us understand whether or not it will be possible to socialize them or if we should TNR them and return them to their outdoor community. Generally the ideal window of socialization is with kittens younger than 12-weeks old, though it has been anecdotally observed that cats older than this are still candidates for socialization if the foster is able to dedicate more time and resources toward the project. Example graphic from Alley Cat Allies about the socialization continuum (above). When it becomes clear to us that a rescued cat or kitten has the propensity to become socialized to humans we must place them within a foster home where socialization methods and exercises can be performed to help get them ready for adoption. These fosters are usually not first-time fosters; socialization can be a challenging task that requires patience, persistence, and preparedness. It is also the most rewarding type of foster experience - you will never forget your spicy cat’s first purrs or the first time they let you pet them without fear. This guide is a compilation of some basic information and anecdotes from fosters about socialization so interested fosters can feel prepared going into the task. Supplies Food Water Any medication needed Dewormer Travel carriers - at least one per cat Litter boxes - at least one per cat Dedicated socialization area Large dog crate Sturdy pop up tent Small room Breatheable bedsheet to cover enclosure Welding gloves, at least gardening gloves Spoon with soft fabric Treats Lick mats Gerber chicken baby food (ensure it is plain chicken, additions of garlic or onion can be toxic to cats) Churu treats Hard treats or just kitten kibble Cat cave bed where cat can retreat to feel safe Toys Wand toys Small ball toys Scratching posts Cat furniture like windowsill perches Socialization Saves Lives has an extensive article with recommendations for specific supplies and setups you can reference here. The author of that particular socialization method recommends against using dog crates because she likes to get into the enclosure with the cats but we think it’s still possible to get physically close to the cats with a dog crate. Socialization requires a dedicated area or enclosure where exercises will take place. It is easiest to begin socialization by keeping the kitten in an enclosure where they can’t run/hide or get into places in your home where they shouldn’t be. Within the enclosure should be an area where feedings can happen, water available at all times, a small litter box, and a cat cave for the cat to retreat into when it needs to. Ideally, the enclosure will be within a room that the kittens can “graduate” to when they seem more comfortable with your presence and need more space to run around. General Step-by-Step Get started learning about the basic socialization with the Scardey Cats Australia step-by-step guide that can be referenced here. Socialization can take anywhere from a few days (generally with former strays/community cats who had been fed and interacted with humans) to 2-6 weeks (for kittens within the socialization window with no previous exposure to humans, longer for older kittens) to months (for cats older than the ideal socialization with no human exposure). Generally, the most important thing to keep in mind is that food is the most important motivating force in getting an undersocialized cat to trust you. You should never free-feed a cat that you are socializing as it is critical they regard you/humans as the source of their food and therefore create positive reinforcement around your presence. Generally, socialization starts by creating a routine for mealtime and socialization exercises. An example schedule could look like: 9-9:30 am Clean litter Clean enclosure Mealtime Playtime 12-12:30pm Snack time Touch training 5-5:30pm Mealtime Playtime 9-9:30pm Clean litter Clean enclosure Mealtime Playtime Cats are creatures of routine, and if they know when to expect your presence and meals, they become more familiar with you. It is important to be consistent in how you conduct the routine - for instance, announcing your presence to the cats when you enter the room helps them associate you and your voice with mealtime. Whatever you do - just remain calm and consistent in your interactions. There are important mini exercises you can do with mealtime. The goal is to get them to eat comfortably in front of you, and even let you stroke them while they eat. An example of a typical progression of cat with socialization during mealtime could look like: Day 1 Eats while you are in the room sitting on the ground with your back fully turned to them Day 2 Eats while you are in the room sitting on the ground with your back fully turned to them while you read a book aloud in a low-toned voice Day 3 Eats while you read a book aloud with your body turned halfway toward them Day 4 Eats comfortably while you read or speak to them with your body turned fully toward them Day 5 Anticipates your presence during mealtime and emerges from cat cave/hiding spot. Eats comfortably while you are a few feet away from them, fully facing them, within the enclosure or with the crate door open Day 6 Lets you stroke them with an apparatus like a wooden kitchen spoon wrapped in soft fabric while they eat Day 7 Emerges from enclosure to eat food from your hand or served in bowls on your lap Mealtime is the perfect time to begin slowly introducing touch exercises. Once the cats seem ready, you should serve most mealtimes from your lap or feeding them by hand. It is especially helpful to use high-value treats such as churu sticks or chicken baby food spread onto lick mats for touch socialization. Examples of progress Day 2 (above) - barely comfortable eating in front of foster even while their bodies are turned away Day 8 or 9 (above) - fully comfortable coming onto foster’s lap for meal time As the under socialized cats become more comfortable with your presence, you continue to push their “challenge line” while consistently giving positive reinforcement in the form of high-value treats or experiences such as playtime. The “challenge line” is the perceived edge of a cats comfort zone, it can be physical like a threshold between rooms that a cat feels nervous crossing, or emotional like a specific type of touch that makes the cat recoil. “Challenge line” is a term coined by Jackson Galaxy that is referenced in many of his awesome videos for cat behavioral resources. Pushing an under-socialized cats challenge line could look like: While they are on your lap eating, start working up to holding them by putting mild pressure under their belly with your hand or nudging them off the ground a few inches at a time Leading the cat into a new room by playing with a string toy thus physically pushing them past that boundary as they chase the toy Having people of all ages and genders come over to interact with the cats during mealtime or playtime so they get used to new human mannerisms, looks, and voices Important Tips from our Fosters Here is a collection of anecdotal tips our experienced fosters have had success with when socializing cats. Slow blinking, no eye contact Cats feel like prey when we stare at them. It is important when beginning socialization to try not to make direct eye contact with the cats. An easy way to avoid this is to look past them right between their pointy ears. When they begin to feel more comfortable with eye contact, you can slow-blink. Slow-blinking is a type of body language cats use to show they are comfortable with us. Hazel from Socialization Saves Lives has a tutorial on slow-blinking here. Music for cats Music can calm cats as they get used to the human noises of a home. During socialization sessions we’ve had success with the album Music for Cats by David Teie which was composed using the tempo of a cats heartbeat and purrs with scientific evidence that it calms cats. Cats also respond well to calm classical music or harp music. As they get more comfortable you can start to play typical music that would play in your home to get them used to more genres. Keep a podcast on when you are not in the room It’s important to get these cats used to different human voices so it is recommended to let a podcast or the radio play while you are not in the room talking. Spend time in the room doing your usual tasks while paying no mind to the cats At first under socialized cats can be really afraid of your presence because they feel like they are in a prey dynamic. If you ignore them - doing your typical tasks at home or even napping while they can observe you safely, it proves to them that you are less of a threat. For cats that are not food motivated, play can be your best friend in getting them over their “challenge lines” Some cats are not food motivated which can be really frustrating when trying to socialize! One way to get cats to come out of their shell is to initiate play - this helps them feel more in control when they can play the role of “predator.” Don’t force physical love or wrap the kitten in a purrito, unless it seems like it wants that Some socialization methods recommend forced touch or even wrapping the cat in a purrito. Be empathetic toward the cat - if it seems like it will hate this kind of touch don’t initiate it. Overdoing it too early can cause the cat to backslide and set back your socialization schedule. If this happens, just go back to the socialization step they are comfortable with and work back up from there. Let the cat lead the socialization progression Tread a delicate balance between exposing the cat to more stimuli while also being respectful of their boundaries. Some cats are not lap cats - the goal of socialization shouldn’t be to produce the most cuddly, human-loving cat of all time. A more realistic goal is to socialize a cat to the point where they are comfortable with humans and can thrive in a home adoption setting. By letting the cat lead, you grow an empathetic bond that helps you understand how to best facilitate new stimuli and experiences without having them backslide. Keep a journal When you’re busy socializing it’s hard to recognize the progress you are making. Keeping a journal with any milestones, health notes, or behavioral notes can help you track your progress and understand what new boundaries you might help the cat cross gradually. Major Milestones Scardey Cats Australia has a great resource on Milestones to Expect here. General milestones will be signs that the cat is becoming more accustomed to a human-home and house cat way of life. This could look like: Comfortable eating in your presence Comfortable with touch Ability to make eye contact First purrs Seeks out attention/petting First meows to communicate with you Comfortable being close to you or on your lap Keeping a journal can help you make note of these important milestones. Some of the most important goals to keep in mind as you are getting these cats ready for adoption are also: Comfort being handled or picked up Extremely important for cats to be used to being held or picked up especially when they go to vet visits Comfortable having nails trimmed or being brushed Important be be comfortable with typical pet cat mantainence Comfortable with carrier Need to be comfortable getting into carrier for vet visits and adoption Dealing with Setbacks Socializing cats is no easy task - and there will be moments where it feels hopeless. We are here to help you and can advise you on specific situations. Try to keep in mind that what you are doing is important work in changing the fate of this cat’s life. Be patient with yourself and the cat, every individual cat is different and will progress at a different rate. It’s important to build time for you to not burn out, if the cat is not responding to specific socialization exercises take some time to yourself to calm down and try again with a more manageable exercise in the future. We are here for you and we hope this guide helps manage your expectations! Resources Articles and extensive guides: Scardey Cats Australia - Guide to Taming Feral Cats Alley Cat Allies - How to Socialize a Kitten Alley Cat Allies - The Cat Socialization Continuum: A Guide to Interactions Between Cats and Humans Socialization Saves Lives Method Kitten Lady - Helping Feral Kittens Become Friendly Videos: Flatbush Cats - Socializing Feral Kittens Flatbush Cats - How to socialize feral kittens Kitten Lady - Wild to Mild Urban Cat League - Taming Feral Kittens and Cats Kitten School - How to tame a fearful cat or kitten using the Social Box method

Having two, three or more feline friends all getting along and providing calendar worthy adorableness is a great goal to have.  However, sometimes adding a new "friend" doesn't go as smoothly as we would like! Here are some helpful hints to ensure smooth sailing in a multi-cat household. Slow is best. I know you want everyone to be the best of friends, but believe me; slow is best. Gradual introductions give everyone the chance to get to know each other, at their own pace.  By paying attention to your cats' verbal cues and body language, you can best judge how they are feeling, and how to proceed. Cat A is the original cat.  A for awesome. Cat B is the newcomer.  B for Barbarian invader. Put cat B in their own room to start.  This can be a guest room, a bathroom, or a family member's room that cat A isn't possessive of.  This lets them get used to being in a new place one room at a time, and it also lets the cats interact under the door. Watch how cat A approaches the door.  Is it a slink?  A stalk?  A saunter?  This can tell you if cat A is feeling scared, confrontational, or confident.  Growling indicates a readiness to rumble.  Hissing is a sign of fear.  Meowing is generally interest, but can also be distress.  As your cat's person, you should be able to discern the difference.  Large dilated pupils, and pinned back ears show that your cat is not ready to meet cat B.  Forward and alert whiskers are generally a sign of interest, and bode well for future interactions. Let cat A and cat B interact under the door for the first day. Day 2+ Keep letting the cats interact under the door. You can also shut cat A in a different room, and allow cat B to explore the house.  This lets cat B know more about their new and exciting forever home, and also allows the cats to cross scent trails with each other without a direct face to face interaction.  Because slow is best! While making dinner, or playing board games, or watching TV...some regular family activity, bring cat B out in a carrier, and set them in the room the family time is happening in.  This brings them into the house with the family, and allows cat A to interact with them in a safe way.  Cat B should feel reasonably safe in the small enclosed space the carrier provides.  Cat A has all the power in this interaction.  Cat A can approach as quickly or as hesitantly as they want to.   They can go back and forth, without being pursued.  And, if their kitty panties are in a bunch about having a new cat in the house, they cannot start a fight with a cat that is safe in a carrier. Based on how the cats are acting with the carrier barrier, you can get an idea on how long it will be before they can have barrier free interactions. When both cat A and cat B are ready for bed, you can take a sock or t-shirt that smells like their person, and rub it on the other cat.  This way cat A smells the comfort of their person along with the scent of the new cat, and vice versa for cat B. Some cats are ready to make friends in a few days. Let's say your cats are taking a bit longer.  (And that's ok, because slow is best.) I'm a big fan of the use of baby gates.  Its a barrier, but its see through.  Invest in a tension rod, ($4) and make it so that there is a curtain/blanket over the top of the baby gate.  Because we all know that your standard cat can leap a three foot gate without any issue.  Use the top of the baby gate to secure the bottom of the curtain, and the tension rod to hold the top, at least 4 more feet up.  If your cat has a favorite treat, or wet food flavor, give both cat A and B that special snack at the same time, on their respective sides of the gate.  Make sure to leave a few feet between them, so they don't feel the need to protect this precious resource, but you want them to be able to see each other, to associate this yummy ritual with the other cat.  Tell them how wonderful they are.  Positive associations are great! Let's say that cat A is a 6 year old, and cat B is 12 weeks old.  Your introduction took a whole 4 days, because cat A has lived with other cats before, and kittens aren't a territorial threat.  However, after a while, cat A loses some patience with cat B and gets a little snippy. Adding vertical space, and additional hiding spaces can really help!  Even if you just bring home a couple of cardboard boxes from the store, and put them in different rooms.  Feel free to get as creative as you want! The longest is has ever taken BCR's Captain to introduce an adult cat to a household full of cats and kittens was one month.  And she took much less time to adjust to the cats in her forever home when she was adopted.  It might take a bit more time than you planned, or you might be pleasantly surprised at how smoothly everything comes together. Either way, take it slow, and shower everyone involved with love, and life will be good!

De-stress the cat or kitten Place the cat/kitten in a warm, dark, and quiet room. This will be "his/her room" for the duration of their stay with you. If your kitten has a crate, feel free to put a sheet or towel over it for the first few days.  This allows them to feel more secure. Give the kitten time to adjust. This may take ten minutes or a full week, depending on the animal's age and history. Monitor for signs of illness and correct any health problems that create added stress (upper respiratory infections, worms, fleas, etc.) Kittens will be wormed and given flea prevention before entering a foster home. Whenever possible, place cats/kittens together with known siblings or "friends" from the same site. Create consistent, positive associations with you as the caretaker Keep up quiet, gentle kitty-talk while you are working with the new kitten. Feed on a regular schedule (2-3 times per day), and remain in the room, as close as possible to the cat/kitten while she eats. Gradually introduce touching, at first quickly and lightly, then increasing in duration and pressure until you can pet all over the kitten. If your kitten will not let you use a hand, try touching them first with a feather or a toy lightly until they settle. Once they seem comfortable with it, gradually replace it with your hand until they are comfortable with that. Gradually introduce play, reinforcing appropriate play behaviors and always keeping in control of the play situation. Always use a toy to play with the kitten, rather than your hand. You want to discourage kittens from scratching and biting your hands, even during play. After the kitten is comfortable being petted and played with, you can begin to pick her up, always supporting her with both hands. If the cat still seems to be uncomfortable, try making sure that all 4 of its paws have some surface supporting them (i.e. your hands, arms, or chest). Pick a time when she is relaxed, like after an exhausting play period or around naptime. Holding two kittens at one time who are used to each other can make them feel less stressed, not separated from the group. Practice gently touching the paws, ears, tail, and belly. This will make future trips to the vet less stressful. Always stop any play or petting just as you notice the kitten acting stressed and end with praise!   (signs of stress include dilated pupils, hissing, seeking a hiding spot, or swatting away attention) Remember that your goal is to socialize kittens to people, not necessarily to each other. After the cat is completely at ease being handled, played with, and cared for by you, gradually introduce the stresses of everyday life, providing hiding outlets for stress/fear reactions. Introduce typical house cleaning movements one at a time, stopping between motions to praise and pet the cat/kitten.  (Oh how much fun we are having with the vacuum cleaner right now!) Gradually introduce new people; at first only passive, quiet presence. Allow the kitten to approach the stranger in her own time, and make sure the stranger pets gently and speaks quietly for reinforcement. Once the cat/kitten is confident approaching strangers, you may introduce more abrupt or aggressive "pet the kitty" types. Since these kittens are coming from an unsocialized environment, they should be kept indoors at all times, as they are fearful and might make a dash for it.   They will be coming with their own litter box and scoop, which should be kept separate from any litter boxes belonging to already existing house cats. (Do not share a litter box scoop.) Important: If anything happens to your cat/kitten in the middle of the night (illness, accident, escape, etc.) please contact BCR. Do not wait until morning! Remember to always work confidently and quietly with the cat/kitten. They pick up on any anxiety you may have, and equally on your sincere desire to help them feel comfortable, secure, and happy in a new home. Obviously, some kittens will progress more quickly, and half these tips won't apply.  But since we focus so strongly on feral kittens, and some of them are such little fear filled nutter butters to start, they certainly can't hurt!